New Kitten Checklist UK: Everything You Need in the First Week
The day your kitten comes home is chaos in the best possible way. One minute you're calmly setting up a litter tray, the next there's a tiny creature asleep inside your laundry basket and you're wondering if you forgot something important. You probably did — everyone does.
This checklist covers everything a kitten actually needs in the first week, in the order that matters. Buy the essentials before pickup day; the nice-to-haves can wait until you've survived week one.
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The absolute essentials (buy before pickup day)
1. Kitten food — wet and dry
Your kitten should keep eating whatever the breeder or shelter was feeding for the first week or two, to avoid an upset stomach on top of all the other changes. Ask them what brand they use and buy a small bag of it. After that, transition to a good complete kitten food of your choice — we've rounded up our favourites in our best kitten food guide.
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2. Food and water bowls
Kittens eat better from shallow, wide bowls — deep narrow bowls push their whiskers against the sides, which some kittens hate (it's called whisker fatigue, and it's real). Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are best; they're sturdy, easy to clean, and don't hold smells like plastic does. Get two: one for food, one for water, and keep the water bowl away from the food — cats prefer to drink away from where they eat.
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3. Litter tray and litter
One tray per cat, plus one extra, is the golden rule — so two trays for one kitten. Start with an open, low-sided tray; covered trays and top-entry boxes can intimidate a small kitten. For litter, start with a non-clumping wood or paper-based litter. Cats Protection advises avoiding clumping litter while a kitten is young, because kittens explore with their mouths and swallowed clumping litter could cause a blockage. A fine-grain clumping litter can come later, once your kitten is older. Avoid scented litter — kittens have sensitive noses and often refuse it.
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4. A safe sleeping spot
Your kitten will sleep 18–20 hours a day (yes, really), so a cosy bed matters. An enclosed igloo-style bed or a soft donut bed gives them the feeling of being tucked away, which helps a nervous kitten settle. Place it somewhere warm and quiet — not in the middle of the living room on day one. A blanket that smells like their previous home, if the breeder can provide one, works wonders.
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5. A scratching post
This is not optional. Kittens need to scratch — it's how they stretch, mark territory and keep their claws healthy. If you don't provide a post, your sofa becomes the post. Get a sturdy vertical scratcher taller than your kitten can stretch (they grow fast), with sisal rope rather than carpet. Put it near where they sleep — cats love a good scratch right after a nap.
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6. A carrier
You'll need this on day one for the journey home, and again for every vet visit. A hard-sided carrier with a top opening is easiest — you can lift a sleepy kitten out from above instead of dragging them through the front door. Line it with a soft blanket and leave it out at home with the door open so your kitten gets used to it as a safe den, not a scary box.
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The first-week jobs (not shopping, just important)
Book a vet check
Get your kitten registered with a local vet within the first few days. The vet will check their general health, confirm their vaccination schedule (first jabs are usually around 8–9 weeks, second at 12 weeks), and talk you through flea and worm treatment. Bring any paperwork the breeder or shelter gave you.
Microchipping — it's the law in the UK
Since June 2024, all pet cats in England must be microchipped by 20 weeks of age. (Scotland and Wales have their own timelines, so check your local rules.) Most vets do it during a routine visit — it's quick, and it dramatically increases the chances of getting your kitten back if they ever slip out.
Set up one safe room
Don't give your kitten the whole house on day one. Set up a single room with their bed, food, water, litter tray and a few toys, and let them explore from there. Once they're confident — eating, playing, using the tray — open up the rest of the house one room at a time. Most kittens are ready within a few days.
Start a routine
Kittens thrive on routine: meals at the same times, play sessions before bed, quiet time after. It sounds rigid, but it actually makes them calmer and more confident. A tired kitten is a well-behaved kitten — ten minutes of active play before your own bedtime saves you from 3am zoomies.
Nice to have (week two and beyond)
Once the basics are covered, these make life better: a few interactive toys (feather wands and crinkle balls are kitten favourites), a window perch for prime bird-watching, a water fountain if your kitten ignores their bowl, and pet insurance — seriously worth sorting early, before any pre-existing conditions exist.
The one-week verdict
You don't need to buy the entire pet shop. Food, bowls, litter and tray, a bed, a scratching post and a carrier — that's the kit that gets you through week one. Everything else can wait until you know your kitten's personality. The best thing you can give them in the first week isn't a product at all: it's patience, a quiet room, and letting them come to you.
FAQ
What age should a kitten come home?
In the UK, kittens should stay with their mother until at least 8 weeks, and 12–13 weeks is even better. Anyone offering a kitten younger than 8 weeks is a red flag.
Do I need to kitten-proof my home?
Yes — at least the basics. Secure loose cables, keep cleaning products locked away, check that windows have restrictors, and keep the toilet lid down. Kittens investigate everything with their mouths.
Should I get pet insurance for a kitten?
It's worth it. Vet bills add up fast, and insuring a young healthy kitten is cheap compared to insuring an older cat. Get lifetime cover if you can, and read the exclusions before you buy.
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